England 2018: The Imperial War Museum

On the last full-day of my London vacation, I visited The Imperial War Museum. The Imperial War Museum was absolutely amazing and next to The Churchill War Rooms, it was the best place that I’ve visited in London.

More on that in a minute…remember how I mentioned getting lost in London? Well, my GPS continued to fail me and I had an ordeal as I tried to find The Imperial War Museum.

Luckily, London is full of these handy street maps, which is the only reason that I didn’t resort to buying a map from a tourist shop.

I estimate that I walked about two miles out of my way and really should have taken “The Tube” to the Waterloo Station, however getting lost led to some cool discoveries, such as this class British phone box- which are not so common these days.

And this old monument with a new skyscraper in the background. London is a city of modern and vintage.

Nearer to the museum, I found a school with a scary amount of barb wire! What the heck is going on here?

The Imperial War Museum is located on the outskirts of London, in a semi-residential neighborhood. When I walked back to the tube (Waterloo station) I realized that it was about a mile walk. It isn’t a long distance, if you’re in shape, but for older visitors or those who don’t wish to walk, I recommend a taxi from the tube station. The museum has a convenient taxi rink, located just outside of the main entrance.

The Imperial War Museum knows how to make a great first impression. It has an expansive lawn with old cannons and even a piece from the Berlin Wall.

As with many of the other London museums, The Imperial War Museum has free admission. However, they also would love donations. In exchange for a small donation ( I believe it was 10-15 pounds), I received a blue Imperial War Museum tote bag and a map of the museum.

When I bought my admission ticket, I asked, primarily out of curiosity, how long people typically spend at the museum. The answer was two hours.

HA!!!!!!!

The museum has five floors of exhibits. I started on the first floor, which is dedicated to WW1. I spent over four hours just on the first floor.

I actually toured half of the WW1 exhibit, when I heard an announcement regarding tickets for a guided tour. I left in the middle of WW1 and went to the information desk to inquire. The special tour was ten pounds and lasted for an hour. It was worth far more than the cost of the tickets, truly a must-do, especially since the museum is free.

For the tour, we were provided with headsets, so that we could hear our guide and he didn’t have to shout or disturb other visitors. Only eight people were in my group, which is a real shame, since this added so much to my experience at the museum. I love in-depth looks at specific things.

We were taken around the museum to about six different exhibits and given a greater understanding of their significance. One of the exhibits was a boat used in the Dunkirk evacuation and although I have not watched the film, it was explained to us that the movie, Dunkirk, had many inaccuracies. Another item, was a cage like structure that British families were given to protect themselves during bombings. The guide took the time to answer questions and we had one senior citizen in our group, who added insight from childhood memories of WW2.

After the tour, I went back to WW1 and finished the section. At this point, I was quite overloaded with information and if I had more days in my trip, I would have come back and done the other sections with a fresh mind, but I didn’t have the luxury of time.

I took a quick lunch break in the museum’s cafeteria. One of the things that the Brits really get right foodwise, is lunch. I adore British pre-made sandwiches, crisps, and cloudy lemonade. Even when I had flights that were quickly passing through Heathrow, I grabbed this combo at Boots or M&S. The museum cafeteria was a huge step-up from Boots or M&S, with regard to both quality and price. If sandwiches are not your thing, the museum offered quite a few hot lunch items as well.

After a speedy lunch break, I headed to WW2. I was conscious of time and did not go through the second floor on as leisurely a pace, as I did on the first. I had theatre tickets and I was meeting my niece in central London, so I could not stay until museum closing at six. I only had until about 5pm. I knew that time was precious and that I wouldn’t see it all, so I zeroed in on WW2 and a separate Holocaust exhibition.

Again, just as with the first floor, it would be easy to spend four plus hours on each floor. I felt overwhelmed and frustrated. One of my favorite exhibits in the WW2 section, was look into the life of an average London family, showing how the war impacted each member.

There was a section on English children who were evacuated out of the city and into the countryside. This happened to my mother-in-law, who was sent to Wales during the war. Take a look at this heartbreaking and disturbing letter that an evacuated child wrote.

Speaking of my mother-in-law, I got a kick out of the nutritional signs, especially “Doctor Carrot.” I had been staying with my mother-in-law prior to heading to London and she got a ton of carrots in her weekly farmer’s box, so I felt like I was eating or rather, being offered carrots, non-stop for nearly a week. I even had an inside joke about it with my sister-in-law, who was also offered carrots!

The floor dedicated to The Holocaust was an emotional experience. I’m relieved to report that I was surrounded by respectful and reverent visitors, who quietly viewed the exhibits and refrained from taking photographs. The exhibit is filled with personal items from prisoners, such as a doll that was created from camp uniforms. There are so many horrific personal stories and even stories that show humanity in the darkest of places. One of the main parts of the exhibit is a forty-foot scale model of Auschwitz- Birkenau. If you only have a few hours to tour The Imperial War Museum, you should head to this exhibit first. It’s too important to be missed.

I ended my day with a quick trip to the gift shop and a look at the exhibits in the lobby. Airplanes are suspended from the ceiling and the bottom floor has some large scale exhibits, such an old horse drawn cannon cart and a car that was recently bombed by terrorists. The car is a startling reminder that although the museum deals primarily with wars of the past, the threat is always looming. The world remains an unstable place.

The next time I have a few free-days in London, I will definitely head back to The Imperial War Museum. This is one of the best history museums that I have ever visited and must-see for history buffs. It’s an important place to take children and your visit should not be rushed.

One last, non-related item…as I headed to Trafalgar Square to meet my niece, I bumped into a statue that was on my must-see list. It is called A Conversation with Oscar Wilde 1854-1900 and was one of the literary monuments that I was hoping to visit. I thought it was fitting to have discovered it while on my way to the theatre!

England 2018: The Old Operating Theatre and Borough Market

After leaving The Clink Prison Museum, I headed to Borough Market for a quick lunch. Borough Market is one of the oldest markets in London and it boasts an extensive array of food stalls and grocers, truly something to appeal to every taste. If you’re a foodie, Borough Market is something that you must experience. I was spoiled for choices, and throughly enjoyed the lively atmosphere, delicious smells, and talented street performers.

It was a tough choice, but I settled on a chicken wrap from Soul Food for my lunch. It was slightly spicy with fresh, crisp vegetables. Besides being tasty, it was an easy choice for a meal that I could easily eat while exploring the market.

My early-afternoon plans were to visit The Old Operating Theatre Museum and Herb Garret. Housed in the attic of a historic building,, this medical museum is a hidden gem with an interesting backstory: The site was originally a church, which became a hospital and in the early 1800’s the operating theatre was constructed. The operating theatre was in use prior to the advent of anesthesia or many of our modern pain medicines. Take a moment to consider this and check out these two pieces of art that were at the museum. Scary stuff

The Old Operating Theatre shut-down in 1862. The entrances were boarded up and no one realized that it existed, until it was rediscovered in the 1950’s. The Old Operating Theatre and Herb Garret were in great disrepair, but the bones of the structure were solid and it was possible to salvage this building of historic importance.

I got a little lost trying to find the museum. There is a big university campus nearby and I was confused by all of the side streets. It didn’t help that my GPS wasn’t working. But getting lost, allowed me to come across this cute sign:

And a marker for the famous poet, John Keats, who also went to medical school.

Admission to The Old Operating Theatre and Herb Garret was only 6.50 pounds for adults. A bargain!

It’s a small museum and took me about an hour to explore. Don’t let the size put you off, it contains many exhibits that are absolutely fascinating. Another important item to note is that to access the museum, you must climb a very narrow and steep winding staircase. I was nervous on the stairs, especially on the way down. I’m not sure if they have an elevator elsewhere in the building to make it wheelchair accessible, but it worth asking prior to visiting.

The museum provides an educational experience for kids, which includes a craft table with anatomy and physiology themed projects. There were many young children during my visit and all of them seemed engaged in the content.

The exhibits explore 19th century medicine and surgical tools. Some are familiar, such as the use of leeches, but I was horrified by others, such as cakes to combat tape worms, apparently a rampant problem of the time.

The Old Operating Theatre is completely open, so it is possible to walk both around the gallery and down on to the operating floor. Having seen the medical instruments and armed with the knowledge that medicine is not what it is today, it’s easy to imagine the suffering that occurred in this arena. However, along with the suffering there was also alleviation of suffering and innovation in medicine.

Spending time here, made me think of my one and only operation. When I was in my late 20’s, I had an emergency surgery to remove my gallbladder. I had been experiencing painful gallstone episodes for years and finally, I had one episode where the stone wouldn’t pass. I was absolutely panicked about the surgery, hysterically crying, and although I knew that it was necessary, I was more nervous than I have ever been in my life.

My mom was having none of it. She had experienced many surgeries and was not sympathetic towards my feelings. Further more, I learned after the fact, that she told the anesthesiologist to wait to sedate me, so that I could get a good look at the operating room. She thought that I would find it “interesting” and didn't want me to miss out on the experience. I went into the room fully aware and vividly remember seeing all of the shiny, sharp scalpels on a tray near me. I got a good look before being knocked out. I cannot imagine the trauma that patients of earlier centuries endured, when anesthesia was not an option.

I forgive my mom. It was pretty cool to see the operating room.

Finally, there was a mention of poet John Keat’s time spent in the medical field and an exhibit about Miranda Barry, who disguised herself as a man taking the name James, in efforts to become a surgeon. She was the first licensed female physician and surgeon in England.

The Old Operating Theatre Museum and Herb Garret is a highly-recommend addition to your London vacation itinerary. It is close to many other attractions, making it easy to combine with other sites for a full-day out. It provides a unique glimpse into the evolution of medicine and life in a different century.

England 2018: The Clink Prison Museum

Midway through my week in London, I woke up early to walk across town to The Clink Prision Museum. With so many different attractions in London, The Clink Prison Museum is not likely to be at the top of a visitor’s “must see” list, but it should. Clink Prison was one of the oldest prisons in England: it opened in 1144 and ran until the late 1700’s. The museum is now located on the original location of the prison and provides a detailed look at crime and punishment in previous centuries.

It was a beautiful, sunny morning when I set off and I got quite lost. I can think of worst things than getting lost in London, especially when I wasn’t actually in a hurry. I found a beautiful outdoor shopping center, where I recharged with a Starbucks latte and discovered this steampunk ship.

I also walked across the London Bridge to find a memorial for the 2017 terrorist attacks on the other side. I was quite startled, because I didn’t realize that I was visiting a year after the attack. I spent some time looking at the flowers and notes that people had left on the bridge. It was a sobering and reflective part of my vacation. I also had an uncomfortable realization that I had forgotten about the attack, because similar events have become a normal part of the news. The idea that this has become part of the norm is sickening.

On my walk, I found The Golden Hinde, which was the first ship to circumnavigate the globe and was captained by Sir Francis Drake. The ship is now docked and acts as a living history museum with actors dressed as pirates.. I definitely plan on visiting The Golden Hinde on my next trip to London, but on this morning, it was very crowded with tour groups.

By mid-morning, I found myself at the foreboding entrance to The Clink Prison Museum. The entrance looks like a dungeon and I had to walk down a dark set of stairs to the bottom. I’m a chicken and really can’t handle “scare actors,” jumping out at me, so not only did I read reviews to make sure that I wouldn’t experience jump-scares, but I confirmed it with the employee who sold me my ticket.

Admission was only eight pounds and I also received a souvenir guide book. Although I did not take part, the museum offers guided tours and ghost hunts. I would definitely consider another visit with a tour to take a deep dive into the history. Of special note for Americans, The Clink was the origin of the Mayflower settlers, who spent time in the prison for their separatist beliefs, eventually founding their religious philosophy that would carry them to the new world.

The Clink Prison Museum is family friendly and to make it more enticing for kids, they have many of the exhibits marked with signage that is directly aimed at children, with a friendly cartoon rat explaining some of the realities of life in The Clink. I think they did a good job at making heavy topics and scary imagery palatable for kids, however, The Clink is likely to be frightening to many. I was alone during most of my visit, however, I saw one family with younger elementaryaged kids, leave crying. I think this is best for older elementary or junior high aged children.

Here are some examples of the rat signage. I like the one about debt- yikes!

The creepiest thing in The Clink Prison Museum is all of the mannequins. Walking alone in the museum, through the dimly-lit halls with these mannequins, gave me the chills. I’m not sure that I would be able to work in this museum, especially if I had to walk through it alone at opening or closing. When I was in my 20’s, I worked for Universal Studios Hollywood in the theme park and I often had to walk the tracks of the attractions. I was always a bit fascinated and freaked-out by the animatronics.

I have no idea why I took this picture or what it is referencing, but there is just so much going on, that I had to share it…

Unlike modern prisons, those imprisoned at The Clink, had to pay for all of their needs, including food. Those who could not pay, had to beg through gates and hope that citizens would take mercy on them.

Many prostitutes found themselves a new home in The Clink.

Not only was the museum built on the original site of The Clink, but they were able to preserve an original piece of the prison wall.

There was an exhibit showing various medical quackery and ideas regarding charms for warding-off problems. The hat has real human teeth.

The most horrific part of the museum details different torture techniques. The creativity used to cause suffering is incredible.

The last part of the museum is in memory to the people imprisoned at The Clink, including Charles Dicken’s father, who was in for debt.

The Clink Prison Museum is a worthy addition to your London itinerary. It only takes about two hours to tour and is located close to many other attractions, such as the Tate Modern.