England 2018: Tate Modern and Picasso 1932 Exhibition

By the time I finished visiting The Old Operating Theatre and Herb Garret, it was late afternoon and I was ready for a refreshment. Near The Clink Prison Museum, I had spotted a cute cafe called Bill’s. I walked back through Borough Market to Bill’s, passing some delightful murals.

I also saw The Globe Theatre, which Dan and I toured many years ago. The current Globe is a recreation of William Shakespeare’s famous Globe Theatre and its mission is to perform both Shakespeare’s works and modern playwrights. I have not seen a play here, but it is on my must-do list. The complex also houses The Swan restaurant, which is where I tried “The Worst Thing I Ever Ate.” Clink on this link to read about my experience at The Globe.

As an adventurous eater, I feel that the Erma Bombeck quote really sums up my attitude towards food, but it was also hilarious that the quote was on a board advertising a restaurant where I experienced one of my biggest food fails!

A huge food success, was my decadent chocolate bomb with caramel sauce and summery cocktail at Bill’s. I cannot recommend Bill’s enough, for atmosphere, friendly service, and great food. I look forward to returning on my next trip to London.

I have to confess that the other reason that I took a break, is that my feet were swollen from all of the walking. It is amazing how many miles I walked in London. I also did it in a pair of strappy gladiator sandals, which was probably not the best choice for arch support, but they did keep my feet cool in the summer heat.

The Tate Modern museum is just down the road from Bill’s. I took a leisurely walk and snapped a few shots of London. London is one of my favorite cities in the world and I hope that one day, we will have the opportunity to live there..

The Tate Modern had long been on my London bucket list. I love art museums, especially modern art and the Tate Modern is one of the most prestigious art institutions in the world.

The Tate Modern is expansive with throughly modern architecture.

The museum, like many in London, has free admission. London isn’t a cheap city, but they do make many of the cultural and historical attractions free, which is awesome. I grew-up in Los Angeles, where we have one day a month of free admission to museums, not every day!

I was overwhelmed by the space. It’s vast. It seemed like there was more open space than art. I used the guide map, but I felt lost.

I ended up paying a nominal fee to tour the special exhibition: Picasso 1932.

I prefer touring a single exhibit, rather than an entire museum. I find that taking a deep-dive into one artist or a specific collection, provides a richer experience. Plus, for all of my love of art, I can only handle about 3-4 hours, before I start to glaze over and lose my focus.

I wasn’t initially planning on viewing the Picasso 1932 exhibition, but the size of the Tate Modern was overwhelming, and I am a fan of Picasso. 1932 was a year of intense productivity and creativity for Picasso. He was in his early 50’s and had just opened his first large scale show in Paris. He was famous and successful, but he had started to feel trapped. Picasso was also influenced by the troubles of the world, including The Great Depression and the looming threat of Hitler’s power. Picasso 1932 was a fascinating look into this specific time in Picasso’s career.

I ended this long day of sight-seeing by the early evening and headed back to my hotel to rest my weary feet. No matter how exhausted, I can’t imagine a city vacation being anything less than an epic cramming of museums and historical landmarks. My in-laws used to call this the “American Style” of vacationing and I accept that 100%. This American is going to see it all!

England 2018: The Old Operating Theatre and Borough Market

After leaving The Clink Prison Museum, I headed to Borough Market for a quick lunch. Borough Market is one of the oldest markets in London and it boasts an extensive array of food stalls and grocers, truly something to appeal to every taste. If you’re a foodie, Borough Market is something that you must experience. I was spoiled for choices, and throughly enjoyed the lively atmosphere, delicious smells, and talented street performers.

It was a tough choice, but I settled on a chicken wrap from Soul Food for my lunch. It was slightly spicy with fresh, crisp vegetables. Besides being tasty, it was an easy choice for a meal that I could easily eat while exploring the market.

My early-afternoon plans were to visit The Old Operating Theatre Museum and Herb Garret. Housed in the attic of a historic building,, this medical museum is a hidden gem with an interesting backstory: The site was originally a church, which became a hospital and in the early 1800’s the operating theatre was constructed. The operating theatre was in use prior to the advent of anesthesia or many of our modern pain medicines. Take a moment to consider this and check out these two pieces of art that were at the museum. Scary stuff

The Old Operating Theatre shut-down in 1862. The entrances were boarded up and no one realized that it existed, until it was rediscovered in the 1950’s. The Old Operating Theatre and Herb Garret were in great disrepair, but the bones of the structure were solid and it was possible to salvage this building of historic importance.

I got a little lost trying to find the museum. There is a big university campus nearby and I was confused by all of the side streets. It didn’t help that my GPS wasn’t working. But getting lost, allowed me to come across this cute sign:

And a marker for the famous poet, John Keats, who also went to medical school.

Admission to The Old Operating Theatre and Herb Garret was only 6.50 pounds for adults. A bargain!

It’s a small museum and took me about an hour to explore. Don’t let the size put you off, it contains many exhibits that are absolutely fascinating. Another important item to note is that to access the museum, you must climb a very narrow and steep winding staircase. I was nervous on the stairs, especially on the way down. I’m not sure if they have an elevator elsewhere in the building to make it wheelchair accessible, but it worth asking prior to visiting.

The museum provides an educational experience for kids, which includes a craft table with anatomy and physiology themed projects. There were many young children during my visit and all of them seemed engaged in the content.

The exhibits explore 19th century medicine and surgical tools. Some are familiar, such as the use of leeches, but I was horrified by others, such as cakes to combat tape worms, apparently a rampant problem of the time.

The Old Operating Theatre is completely open, so it is possible to walk both around the gallery and down on to the operating floor. Having seen the medical instruments and armed with the knowledge that medicine is not what it is today, it’s easy to imagine the suffering that occurred in this arena. However, along with the suffering there was also alleviation of suffering and innovation in medicine.

Spending time here, made me think of my one and only operation. When I was in my late 20’s, I had an emergency surgery to remove my gallbladder. I had been experiencing painful gallstone episodes for years and finally, I had one episode where the stone wouldn’t pass. I was absolutely panicked about the surgery, hysterically crying, and although I knew that it was necessary, I was more nervous than I have ever been in my life.

My mom was having none of it. She had experienced many surgeries and was not sympathetic towards my feelings. Further more, I learned after the fact, that she told the anesthesiologist to wait to sedate me, so that I could get a good look at the operating room. She thought that I would find it “interesting” and didn't want me to miss out on the experience. I went into the room fully aware and vividly remember seeing all of the shiny, sharp scalpels on a tray near me. I got a good look before being knocked out. I cannot imagine the trauma that patients of earlier centuries endured, when anesthesia was not an option.

I forgive my mom. It was pretty cool to see the operating room.

Finally, there was a mention of poet John Keat’s time spent in the medical field and an exhibit about Miranda Barry, who disguised herself as a man taking the name James, in efforts to become a surgeon. She was the first licensed female physician and surgeon in England.

The Old Operating Theatre Museum and Herb Garret is a highly-recommend addition to your London vacation itinerary. It is close to many other attractions, making it easy to combine with other sites for a full-day out. It provides a unique glimpse into the evolution of medicine and life in a different century.

England 2018: Jack the Ripper Tour with Ripper Vision

Since high school, I’ve enjoyed reading true crime books and in particular, anything involving the mystery of Jack the Ripper. In the late 1800’s five prostitutes were brutally murdered in London’s Whitechapel neighborhood. A serial killer, whose identity has never been solved, taunted the police with cryptic letters signed “Jack the Ripper.” Not only is the identity of the murderer still a mystery, but he may have killed more than five people.

One of my London tourist goals was to take a Jack the Ripper crime tour. Even though his crimes occurred nearly a hundred and fifty years ago, the Ripper lore still captures the public’s imagination. To this end, there were many different Ripper tours to choose from. So many different tour companies in fact, that we shared space with other tours for a majority of the evening.

Naturally, a Ripper tour takes place at dusk for maximum effect.

I took the tour with my niece, Pippa, who lives in England. Pippa has been a great sport, joining me for various London outings. She was coming from class, so we met at the Whitechapel tube station. The Whitechapel tube station has several entrances/exits, on opposite sides of the street, so we had some confusion with meeting each other. If you’re taking the tube to a Ripper tour, I recommend allowing for extra time.

We planned to meet early enough for dinner and decided on sushi. I adore sushi and I have to say, we have awesome sushi in California. Even cheap sushi, is usually top-notch. I’ve not experienced good sushi in Europe or even within the US, when traveling outside of California.

Dinner was at a quick-serve chain restaurant called Wasabi Bento & Sushi. My visit was just two weeks after the royal wedding and I couldn’t resist trying the When Harry Met Meghan box. I have no idea what spicy tuna had to do with the royal couple, but it was a fun tie-in. That said, this was very much “not yummy California sushi,” but to be fair, it was also not freshly made.

For dessert, we had lattes and cakes at the ExMouth Coffee Company. I highly recommend this cute cafe, plus for a bonus, head to the bathroom where they have fun art on the wall and a nod to Jack.

Our guide was Ripper expert M.P. Priestley, who is also author of the book, Jack the Ripper: One Autumn in Whitechapel. As you might expect, he was selling copies of his book at the end of the tour. I like to always support authors, so I bought a copy, although I’ve not had the chance to read it. Throughout the tour, Priestley gave plenty of background information regarding the leading suspects, but when he gave the pitch to buy his book, he basically teased that the book would give his real, expert opinion on the true identity of the killer.

Here is Priestley in action, the guy in the grey cap.

I was pumped for this tour and after decades of interest, how could I not be? I’m not sure what I was actually expecting, but it definitely wasn’t even in the top twenty of favorite things that I’ve done in London. Priestley was a good tour guide: energetic, enthusiastic, and knowledgable. The walking tour lasted about 90 minutes and he was a good storyteller, setting the stage for the events as he took us to crime scene locations. In addition, he pointed out other London landmarks, like the Gherkin Building.

The Whitechapel area is certainly worth a visit. It has historic buildings and cobblestone streets that mix with modern businesses. Here are a few pictures.

As odd as it sounds to say this, I enjoyed seeing the crime scene sites and walking around Whitechapel. It brought to life everything that I had previously read. However, the tour didn’t add any new information to what I already knew. If anything, the information felt basic, like Wikipedia level and was perhaps best-suited for those with limited knowledge of the case.

Everyone on our tour was intrigued by the promise of “Ripper Vision.” We didn’t know what to expect, but it felt like it would give added value when compared to other tour operators. We were taken under a bridge and Priestley cast pictures from the Ripper case on to a wall. This was “Ripper Vision.” I guess it was nice, but they hype made me think it would be more impressive. It really wasn’t much better than if he had passed around a few laminated photos.

Behold! Ripper Vision!

The tour wasn’t very expensive. I think about twenty pounds each. I’m glad that I took it, otherwise it would have always been on my London bucket list. That said, I’m not sure that I would recommend it. There are so many amazing things to do in London, including great tours, that the Ripper Tour didn’t come close to matching with regarding to the quality or being memorable.